March 30th Update: Now compatible with the stock Ender 3 V2 and Ender 3 Max
The All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit is a drop-in upgrade for Creality 3D Printers, including the Ender 3, Ender 5 and CR-10.
As a direct replacement for the stock hardware, installation requires no additional parts or modifications to use. It bolts up to the original mounting plate, reusing the same heater cartridge and thermistor wiring for a quick 5 minute setup.
The improved aluminum cooling block design offers better heat dissipation, removing the need for PTFE lining inside of the thermal barrier tube.
Instead, a polished Titanium Alloy heatbreak is used to replace the traditional stainless steel, which has considerably lower thermal conductivity than its counterpart. This creates a sharply defined point of separation between hot and cold zones, minimizing the chance for heat creep and clogs.
0.4mm Brass nozzle is included as standard, ideal for basic materials. Hardened A2 Tool Steel is recommended for abrasive filaments such as wood, carbon fiber, glow in the dark and metal filled.
The Creality All Metal Hotend has been tested and confirmed to work with the following 3D Printers. If you have questions pertaining to fitment, please contact us before purchasing at email@example.com
- Creality Ender 2
- Creality Ender 3 / PRO
- Creality Ender 3 V2
- Creality Ender 3 Max
- Creality Ender 5
- Creality CR10 / 10S
- Creality CR-10 S4
- Creality CR-10 S5
- Creality CR-10 Mini
- Sunlu S8
- Tevo Tornado
- All Metal Hotend for Creality 3D Printers
- 0.4 mm MK8 Nozzle (Brass or A2 Hardened Steel)
- Silicone Sock
- Bowden Collet
Customer ReviewsWrite a review
Upgrading to this hot end immediately solved the issues I was having printing PETG. The fit and finish of the parts is amazing.
After trying a genuine all-metal v6 on an Ender3 and having to print out the fang style ducting and mounting system lead me to want to do as little mods as possible to the hot-end when I got an Ender5. The GCR's all-metal hot end is the no-muss, no-fuss product that does just that. Brings all the best of an all-metal hot-end without having to completely rebuild the hot-end carriage.
Drop this hot-end into the stock carriage re-level the bed for any difference in height, run a PID-Auto tune, reduce retraction distance to 3.5mm, and bump up the temp for filaments by 5 - 10 degrees and you will be back to printing.
I really want to praise the support team here at GCR as well. I had some issues that didn't even correlate to the part I purchased from GCR's and they were more than happy to help. They did not even push me to purchase more of their products to fix the issue they really do want us, the customer, to be able to get the best out of our printers. They truly are by makers for makers, shout-out to Brett Powell for all the support and being highly responsive even on the weekends.
This hotend is about 2mm shorter that the stock one for Ender 3 v2
So my printer fan touches the printed area.
So I finally got mine installed, pid tuned nozzle and bed, set z offset where it was a perfect x pattern on my bed, threw a gcode at it for a simple toy soldier print and it looked great at first and after about 1/3 of the way it just stopped extruding...yea.....stupid me, I re-used gcode from my old PTFE lined hotend *sigh* darn amateurs lol so I had to tear it all apart again, clear the clog and redo everything because I was an idiot....don't be an idiot like me SET RETRACTIONS TO 3mm@40mms as a starting point. So far that seems to work good.
Anyway the hotend seems great (my grub screw to hold the block on was rounded but I just took the one from my old hotend and it worked fine) and I am hoping to get some PETG running through it by the weekend to give it a thorough testing and then maybe some ASA but that might not be till next year.
This hotend has been performing amazingly well for me over the last month and a half or so. I'm printing at 285 consistently, and with the upgraded thermistor, it stays well within my print range without issue. I can print ASA and Polycarbonate now! Yay!
Gulfcoast support has been amazing as well. I had an issue early on with my hotend oozing into the space where the heat break is. This was due to me not following directions and tightening down the nozzle after heating. TIGHTEN IT DOWN HOT!! I can't stress this enough. Once I got this issue sorted, it has been rock solid.
If you want to print more than PLA/PETG, this thing is a must.