Loosen and remove the bed leveling thumbwheels, then lift the heated bed and set it aside.

The heated bed will later be re-installed on the new carriage plate using the original mounting hardware.

Loosen the front belt tensioner and remove the clipped belt ends from Y carriage slots.

Remove the belt tensioner from the Y axis extrusion. This tensioner will be reinstalled after the stock carriage is removed.

Roll the carriage plate forward and off the front of the Y axis.

Use the 3mm hex wrench to loosen the screws, and the 8mm open wrench to brace the nuts and prevent free spinning.

Remove the v-wheels and mounting hardware from the original carriage plate, setting them aside in a safe place. Hardware will be transferred to the new Modular 3-Point Y Carriage Plate in the next step.

Before transferring the hardware, use the color coded diagram to determine which mounting pattern is correct for your 3D printer.

🔴 Ender 3

🟢 Ender 3 PRO, V2 and NEO 3D Printers

Reverse the previous step, transferring the v-wheels and mounting hardware to the new Modular 3-Point Y Carriage Plate.

Prior to installation, double check that the orientation of the Modular 3-Point Y Carriage is correct. Because of the unique shape, only one (of 4 possible) orientation will provide proper clearances.

• The modular mounting holes for printable add-ons should be located on the front, nearest to the belt tensioner.

• The straight edge with cut-outs should be located on the right side, nearest to the LCD screen.

If the Modular 3-Point Y Carriage is backwards, upside down or both, it will collide with the Y axis stepper motor.

Align the wheels with the v-slot extrusion channels on either side, then roll the Modular 3-Point Y Carriage plate on to the Y axis.

Re-install the belt tensioner on the front of the Y axis extrusion. Use the original mounting hardware to secure it in place.

Re-install GT2 timing belt and tension as needed.

Using the 10mm open wrench, adjust the (2) eccentric nuts on the right side to loosen or tighten as needed.

For best results, the wheels should be tight enough to eliminate play, but loose enough to roll freely and without binding.

ⓘ Eccentric nuts don't use righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. They can be turned either direction to adjust the tension.

Install heated bed with stock springs and level adjustment wheels.

Many Creality 3D Printers come with warped heated beds. This is a well known issue. The heated bed manufacturing process (PCB etching) causes the bottom side of the bed to expand and deviate from flatness.

3-Point bed leveling is an optional modification that will enhance the bed leveling process, but it cannot improve the flatness of the bed. Before converting to 3-Point leveling, carefully check your heated bed's flatness after it has been removed from the 3D Printer. Place a metal ruler across the surface, or lay it on a granite countertop to roughly gauge any deviations.

If you find that the heated bed is deformed and not flat, you can try manually bending or twisting it back to a flat shape. This procedure is not for everyone, but aluminum is malleable and can sometimes be corrected using this approach. If that does not work, you may need to purchase a new heated bed. We suggest a CNC machined plate with silicone heater to replace the etched PCB aluminum bed. The Ender 3 Heated Bed Kit is available for purchase in our store.

If your Ender 3 heated bed is reasonably flat and you decided to go with 3-point leveling - use the cross bar and hardware to make the bed modification as shown here.

This is an optional assembly step. Complete it if you decided to use 3-point leveling as described above.